June 20, 2023 - Germany
Rothenburg ob der Tauber

 

Leaving Dachau, we wanted to drive what is called the "Romantic Road"  to the little burg of Rothenburg.   Per Rick Steves:  "The Romantic Road takes you through Bavaria's medieval heartland, a route strewn with picturesque villages, farmhouses, on-domed churches, Baroque palaces, and walled cities.  The countryside between Frankfurt and Munich is Germany's medieval heartland.  Walls and towers ring half-timbered towns, and flowers wpill over the window-sills of well-kept houses.  In the 1950s, towns in this region joined together to work out a scenic driving route for visitors that they called the Romantic Road.

I don't know if we missed it or what but what we drove -- A-8 to 2 to 25  -  was no great shakes.  Just typical flat, German countryside.  It reminded me of the Natchez Trace in the U.S. where the hype didn't match the reality.

But our destination for the night Rothenburg lived up to and surpassed all expectations; one of my favorite places the entire trip.  Maybe the key to the Romantic Road is to just pick one of the walled cities and check it out.\

We arrived in Rothenburg in the late afternnoon and checked into the Burg Hotel.  As you can see, it is as medieval and quaint as it gets.  The innkeeper was a very pleasant, very German older man.  The breakfast was outstanding.  The room, of course, was very nice.  This was probably my favorite lodging of the entire trip.

   

Per Rick Steves:  "In the Middle Ages, when Berlin and Munich were just wide spots on the road, Rothenburg ob der Tauber was a 'free imperial city' beholden only to the Holy Roman Emperor.  During Rothenburg's heyday, from 1150 to 1400, it was a strategic stop on the trade routes between northern and southern Europe.  Because of its priviledged position, along with the abundant resources of its surrounding countryside (textile-producing sheep and fertile farmlands), Rothenburg thrived.  With a whopping population of 6,000, it was one of Germany's largest towns.  But as with many of Europe's best time-warp towns, Rothenburg's fortunes tumbled suddenly.  )In this case, it was an occupation/ransacking during the Thirty Years' War, and a plague that followed soon after, that did the town in)  With no money to fix up its antiquated, severely leaning buildings, the town was left to languish in this state.  Today, it's the country's best-preserved medieval walled town, enjoying tremendous tourist popularity without losing its charm."

Our hotel was inside the medieval city walls.  Driving to it through the old town was interesting, fortunately there was little traffic!   Lynnette is in front of our rental car: an MG.

   
We did the Rick Steves Town Walk which started in the Market Square.
   
A Map of Rothenburg City territory.  Rothenburg sits on the east side of the Tauber River.  Medieval Germany was made of 300 independent little countries, and Rothenburg was one of them.
   
Lynnette in front of Town Hall.
   
Check out the people enjoying the outdoor restaurants on the left.  At the base of the very half-timbered building on the right is the 17th-century St. George's fountain.
   
The eagles decorating Town Hall are a reminder that this was a "free imperial city," which meant that it was self-ruling and subordinate only to the (Habsburg) Holy Roman Emperor.
   
The Ratstrinkstube Clock Tower(from 1466).  The building also houses the Councilors' Tavern where the city officials liked to drink their beer.
   
Close-up of St. George's fountain.  Notice the long metal gutters which were used to fill the villager's buckets with water.
   
Half-timbering gone wild!
   
Lynnette checking out St. Jakob's Church (Church of St. James) which was just down the street from the Burg Hotel.  Built in the 14th century, this church has been Lutheran since 1544.  From Rick Steves:  "Admiring this church, consider what it says about the priorities of a town of just a few thousand people, who decided to use their collective wealth to build such a place.  The size of a church is a good indication of the town's wealth when it was built."
 
We were too late to go inside.
   
We encounter our first German cat!
   
Walking through the pretty convent garden.
   
At the Burgtor Gate, the ornate fortified gate to the city, on the west side.
   
Near Burgtor Gate are good vantage points to see Rothenburg.
 
   
We got up on the ramparts of the town wall.
   
Another nice shot of Rothenburg.
   
 
   
We followed the rampart around the town wall.  Parts had a wooden roof.
   
Passing by an outdoor amphitheater.
   
A good look at the outside of the wall and a tower.
   
Now looking at the inside of the medieval city.
   
 
   
Looking down into someone's backyard.
   
Looking acreoss Rothenburg.
   
 
   
Classic medieval German house.
   
 
   
Lynnette in front of the Roder Tor which is the gate we drove through when we arrived in Rothenburg.  Look how high the town walls are!
   
Take time to smell the roses.
   
Lots of colorful flowers in this town.
   
Typical Rothenburg scene.
   
 
   

We concluded the day by having a nice dinner sitting outside at a Mexican restaurant!  A Dos Equis in Germany?  That's just wrong.
 
   
 
   
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